Ellington

When I’m walking past Subway or McDonald’s, a pungent aroma assaults my nostrils. If I’m especially hungry, this scent of food will make my stomach rumble, but usually it just smells unnatural. I know they do it on purpose to entice me.

I also detected an aroma the first time I walked past U:Don (pronounced you-don) just past the corner of Northeast 45th Street and the Ave, but it didn’t have anything in common with those chain restaurants. Instead, it smelled delicious.

The taste of U:Don’s food lived up to the scent. True to its name, nearly every item on the menu contains udon wheat noodles, a Japanese staple. The chefs at the restaurant make them from scratch. Normally, I don’t like udon noodles; they are too thick and slimy compared to the rice noodles used in Thai food and Vietnamese pho. I changed my mind after a meal at U:Don. Its noodles are firm, but easy to slurp.

Patrons choose from a wide range of noodle styles, served hot or chilled. The cheapest options consist of broth or sauce and cost $4.50 for a small, $5 for a medium, and $ 5.50 for a large.

For a few extra dollars, you can order more elaborate fare. The niku udon — broth served with braised beef— is a fine example. Vegetarians can opt for kitsune udon, which is served with marinated and fried tofu. The curry udon is the most expensive ($6.50 for small, $7 for medium, and $7.50 for large). I ordered this dish, and it was well worth it. After the noodles were gone, I drank the sauce directly from the bowl. I couldn’t resist.

After ordering, you get to customize. Imagine the self-selection of Ruzhen Mongolian Grill combined with the expediency of Subway. The customer walks down a buffet line after receiving his or her noodles, adding tempura, meat, seafood, and gyoza to taste. Unfortunately, I didn’t think the tempura was warm enough, but I observed no other downsides to the buffet approach.

This setup is perfect for college students because it allows for speedy service and personalized meal sizes. A dish can be a light snack or induce a food coma.

U:Don combines sleek, modern wooden tables, colorful walls and bright lighting to create an energetic atmosphere. Tiny speakers pumped out J-pop in the background, but not loudly enough to drown out conversation. It’s not a bad place for a date either, judging by the number of couples I saw.

The verdict: U:Don’s excellent noodles and interactive ordering style make it a delicious alternative to pho. It’s definitely worth a try.

Reach reporter Joseph Sutton-Holcomb at arts@dailyuw.com.