Hot dogs and doughnuts
A hot dog, three doughnuts, and a cup of coffee can be purchased at 43rd Street Donuts for $4.50.
A hot dog, three doughnuts, and a cup of coffee can be purchased at 43rd Street Donuts for $4.50.Photo by Joshua Bessex
4311-½ University Way NE | Business hours vary
Mystery: that’s all that emanates from the small hot dog and doughnut shop on Northeast 43rd Street.
“43rd Street Donuts” is located at 4311-½ University Way, but so is Broyxer and Steyn Jewelry. Mysterious? The small hot-dog stand functions as the front for a much larger jewelry store. And the stand only sells a handful of items, which all cost less than $3: hot dogs, doughnuts, coffee, and an assortment of chips and pop. I was told that very soon the stand would also be getting fried raviolis.
Everything seemed benign, until I ordered my hot dog. It became clear that I had been duped. This was not the typical skinny wiener made of salty meat that’s pasty and smooth.
Rather, this was a thick sausage. It had clearly been steeping in a broth because the sausage was a bit pale and the casing not very snappy. But the broth gave the meat a balanced, porky taste and a pleasant texture.
It was cleverly disguised in an average hot-dog bun and came with all the regular condiments: ketchup, mustard, onions, relish, and sauerkraut. But this sausage was much more delicious than a hot dog and sold for a fair price. The “hot dogs” only cost $2.50.
I also ordered three doughnuts ($1) and watched as an automated machine pumped three tori of batter into a canal of hot oil. After their fry, the golden-brown doughnuts were finished with powdered sugar and cinnamon.
Their exterior was crispy and sweet, while their interior was soft and airy. But I had been tricked again. These treats were not doughnuts, which should have a denser texture. These “doughnuts” were just funnel cake piped into the shape of a ring. And, because of their small size, the inside is close to being overcooked. But they were nonetheless delicious.
And honestly, the doughnuts are a bit overpriced. They’re only a dollar, but their small size does not justify the price, especially with Dollar Tree only a few blocks away.
The people who run the store are older and willing to make small talk and smile. By the end, I relinquished my flimsy ideas of mystery. It’s street food — no more, no less.
The verdict: It isn’t that strange after all. And it’s good to grab a quick, tasty hot dog and maybe splurge on some doughnuts.
Reach reporter Sohrab Andaz at firstname.lastname@example.org. Twitter: @SohrabAndaz
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