By
Joe Darda
October 23, 2008
The prevalence of Indian restaurants in the U-District can make deciding which one to visit an overwhelming task. This leads many students to frequent the same restaurant week after week. However, the Ave’s latest Indian eatery, Malabar South Indian Cuisine, offers good reason to branch out. Malabar specializes in South Indian cuisine and, located on Northeast 42nd Street and University Way Northeast, is a mere block from campus.
If you walk by Malabar’s large front windows, it’s likely you’ll catch a glimpse of the restaurant’s enormous dosas. Dosa, a popular South Indian dish, consists of rice, herbs, spiced potatoes, lentils and peas wrapped in a large Indian-style crepe. Malabar’s dosas are more than a foot long and packed with savory fillings, putting even Chipotle’s colossal gut bombs to shame. Dosas are traditionally a vegetarian item, but chicken, beef and lamb options are available for the carnivorously inclined. Though a sufficient meal in themselves, each dosa is served alongside a warm bowl of sambar (Indian vegetable stew) and coconut and tomato chutneys.
Malabar’s dining area is comfortable, with large, cushioned booths, Indian décor and amiable service. UW junior Savannah Rouse, who has eaten at Malabar a number of times, appreciates the restaurant’s relaxed atmosphere.
“It’s really a pretty cozy place,” she said. “When it’s cold and I’m walking by, it always looks so good.”
However, Rouse, who was enjoying the Madras curry chicken, admitted that the restaurant’s prices keep her from visiting as often as she’d like.
“Malabar is a little expensive, so it’s definitely a bit of a treat coming here,” Rouse said. “It’s a perfect place for a food adventure.”
The prices at Malabar are somewhat steep, but no worse than other local Indian restaurants. Most entrees are in the $9-$13 range, with the dosas presenting a more economical option at $5.50-$7.50.
South Indian food is generally a bit milder than its northern counterpart, so those averse to spice may find Malabar especially agreeable. South Indian cuisine also includes ample dipping sauces and chutneys, allowing diners further control over the degree at s which their mouths burn at meal’s end.
For example, another Malabar specialty, subzi thali ($8.95) consists of a number of small segregated dishes, including garbanzo beans, basmati rice, spinach, mixed vegetables, sambar, yogurt chutney and naan. This compartmentalized array of appetizing items ensures that even the most finicky eater can enjoy one of Malabar’s entrees.
UW junior Danielle Ferrell cited Malabar’s unique specialization as reason to visit.
“It’s a nice change of pace,” Ferrel said. “Malabar offers something a little different and the food’s great.”
Although Malabar’s focus is on dishes originating from Southern India, they do offer a selection of northern specialties, such as shahi paneer and tikka masala, as well as traditional Indian beverages like masala chai and lassi (a sweet and spicy, yogurt-based drink).
Even so, it is their South Indian specialties that set Malabar apart.
Reach reporter Joe Darda at arts@dailyuw.com
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