There are few restaurants in Seattle that truly transport the patron to a different time and space. Most local eateries rely on natural lighting and large, revealing windows — most likely to combat diners' predisposition toward Seasonal Affective Disorder — which make it abundantly clear that, yes, it is cloudy and, yes, you are surrounded by water on three sides.

The New Orleans is not such an establishment. Tucked into a seemingly down-and-out nook in Pioneer Square, the Creole restaurant resides under the infamous sign that reads, "Rooms 75 cents." And, every night of the week, The New Orleans attempts to purvey an experience for diners that is decidedly un-Seattle.

With few windows to the street outside and an atmosphere that evokes a dank, dilapidated speakeasy — complete with some rather politically incorrect antique advertisements — one can almost imagine what it was like in the Pioneer Square of the 1920s or, with enough Sidecars, what it was like in the French Quarter itself.

A Wednesday night found The New Orleans moderately populated with an eccentric blend of clientele, many of whom were alive when sensations like Louis Armstrong, Thelonius Monk and Duke Ellington — whose charcoal portraits along with a host of other jazz greats line the exposed brick walls — thrilled audiences.

Tonight, however, the attraction was the Floyd Standifer Tribute Group. Composed of several veterans of the Seattle jazz scene, including Garfield High School's famous jazz band leader Clarence Acox on drums, the group set a delightful tone for the establishment by playing a mix of jazz standards, raucous blues and newer material.

While Acox showed off his charismatic and considerable prowess on the drums, a large steaming plate of Cajun Jambalaya ($9.75) arrived atop a bed of rice and sizable portion of red beans. Loaded with slices of delightfully spicy Boudin sausage, the dish was stick-to-your-ribs satisfying, although one almost wishes the chef could have stepped-up the spice factor to give Seattle taste buds a true run for their money.

The New Orleans Combo Gumbo ($10.50), which featured an everything-but-the-kitchen-sink blend of sausage, chicken, shrimp and fish with a serving of rice, was slightly less inspired and extremely salty. Consumed with the sweet stiffness of the house Sidecar, however, the combination issued in a wonderful belt-loosening stupor.

Both dishes were served after the rather foreign duo of salad and a small corn pancake. The mysterious nature of the latter, however, only added to the irreverence of the establishment.

Service was relaxed and a bit slow, but at The New Orleans, one gets the sense that things move at the pace of a different time zone. And with a steady stream of Sidecars, the sights of an entertaining host of local characters and the sounds of Dizzy Gillespie's "Caravan" courtesy of the Floyd Standifer Tribute Group, one couldn't ask for anything more.