The Daily of the University of Washington

FOOD: Tastes like chicken…almost


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As the vegan community grows in Seattle, it seems that — slowly, but surely — nearly every type of cuisine has transitioned to accommodate those who shun both meat and dairy. Hence, the Teapot — a darling, Pan-Asian gem which sits near-disguised atop a Subway on Capitol Hill’s East 15th Street.

Though the Teapot was long a vegetarian establishment, in recent years and perhaps due to growing requests, the restaurant has switched to purely vegan cooking. All sauces are derived from soy or vegetable stock, and all “meat” is either soy or bean-curd-based.

While some meat-eaters may fear a loss of flavor or other essential qualities of Asian cuisine — which often occurs with the replacement of ingredients in vegan food — the Teapot has gone to great lengths to ensure this is not the case. Flavor abounds, often from the most unexpected places.

The “chicken” satays ($6.95) arrived nearly indistinguishable from their fowl counterparts with a brightly colored side of peanut sauce. Perfectly replicated in texture with hints of coconut, it will take the patron several bites to even realize that the satays are not, indeed, chicken. Slightly lighter than the heavy peanut sauce that has become de rigeur at most Thai restaurants, the Teapot’s version retains a rich taste and feel but spares the oily sludge.

A classier, conscience-easing version of General Tso’s chicken, the Mandarin Crispy Tofu ($9.95) is high on taste and breading. The Teapot’s Mandarin sauce packs a powerful punch of sweet and spicy and is accompanied by delicately sautéd carrots and lotus roots. Though soft and flavorful, the tofu is breaded to near-extremes. Perhaps in the search to replicate the same breading-to-chicken ratio as Safeway’s China Express for vegans, the Teapots’ chefs were pushed over the edge.

Sizzling and topped with a healthy garnish of peanuts, the Teapot’s Phad Thai ($8.95) was perhaps the only dish that missed the boat for comparability to the non-vegan version. Though cooked in a tangy and tasty tomato-based sauce, the dish longed for a thorough dispersal of egg and the seared-salty taste of chicken stock, coming across as a bit of a soupy topping for another serving of thickly breaded tofu. Toward the end of the meal, you find it difficult to even savor the light texture and flavor of the tofu through so much coating.

Service at the Teapot was delightfully prompt and the establishment’s serene atmosphere, low-lighting and window-facing tables make it a great spot for an adventuresome, cruelty-free date.


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