Hotel restaurants, once the toast of European culture and decadence, have notoriously become tacky, overstuffed and overpriced affairs, where middle-aged businessmen end up regrettably hitting on their partner's underage daughter.

Lola, as part of what seems to be a renaissance on the part of restauranteurs in reviving hotel restaurants, defiantly rejects these stereotypes.

Located in the uber-hip Hotel Andres — where fashionable older women in nautical knits and large sunglasses mingle with their younger Nicole Richie-esque incarnations — Lola is Northwest restaurant mogul Tom Douglas' answer to Greek cuisine.

Lola's atmosphere is a delightfully modern and playful take on the classic conservativism of hotels. The strong granite bar and dark, high-backed booths remain; however, the establishment also features whimsical red-flame chandeliers and a healthy dose of air and light streaming in from the bustling street corner.

Sadly, for the college student's budget, Lola's prices are slightly out of reach save for a splurge or occasion (read: seniors, your parents probably don't want to drink at Earl's for graduation, so consider yourselves warned).

Fortunately, Lola features a wonderful happy hour that offers a taste of decadence, even if your hotel du jour is actually Hotel 6.

Just don't come on an empty stomach, portions are small.

Lamb kebabs ($5) arrive on a hot iron skillet atop a bed of caramelized onions and, dramatically, the waitress pours a shot of ouzo, sending a sizzling torrent of fragrant steam in to the air. The kebabs are tender, juicy morsels that are slightly overpowered by the intense residual taste of ouzo. Paired with a bite of sweet caramelized onions, however, the result is addicting.

Served in a cone with a dish of terrific aioli, Lola's Greek oregano fries ($4.50) are golden brown and crunchy with a tasty blend of seasoning. The aioli sauce offers a sweet counterpoint, although the dish's size will leave the patron in desperate search for more.

On a sunny day, Lola opens up a dining al fresco section next to the 4th Avenue entrance, which easily leads to an enrapt session of people-watching featuring every sector of Seattle life.

Where else can you be solicited for change, watch a steady stream of limousines and towncars, observe two poodles hop out of a Louis Vuitton carrier and sip one of the better Gimlets in the area?