Old-world stained glass, secluded wooden booths and exposed brick walls mysteriously beckon patrons into Via Tribunali.

A narrow, sexy and dimly lit space — that resembles the entrance to an industrial garage from the outside — the Italian establishment has atmosphere in spades and some of the best pizza this side of the Brooklyn.

While upscale pizzerias may appear to be a dime a dozen in many cities, Seattle has few that take their craft seriously.

Like Tutta Bella, its main competitor in Seattle's pizza scene, Via Tribunali's pizza is certified by the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana in Naples, Italy. Via Tribunali, however, lacks the yuppie-modern design and near-industrial feel of Tutta Bella and comes off as a bit more authentic and certainly a better place to linger after hours.

Though ordering can feel a bit like a leap of faith, due to the fact that the entire menu is in Italian (three hints: Pomodoro is tomato sauce, Pomodorini Freschi are tomatoes and Funghi are mushrooms) waiters are never pretentious or opposed to helping novice patrons decipher.

Hot out of an intricately tiled wood-fired oven, the Margherita pizza ($11) arrives delicately covered with thin layers of sauce, mozzarella, tomatoes and fresh basil. Perfectly crisp, while retaining a slightly doughy texture, the crust offers a bit of sweetness that plays well with the subtle tang of the superb tomato sauce. Neither tastes overwhelms, however, the wondrous simplicity of mozzarella, tomato and fresh basil.

The Foccacia Mediterranea ($9) takes a similar rustic approach by combining fresh tomatoes, basil and herbs atop Via Tribunali's house crust and doused in olive oil. Each flavor is so distinct and robust, one almost forgets the dish's simple nature. And paired with one of several international beers on tap, including an illustrious Spaten Pilsner ($5), the result is divine.

Not at all a neighborhood secret, Via Tribunali's slim quarters are packed with well-heeled couples and long waits during city dinner hours (6:30 p.m. until around 9 p.m.), so it's best to come early or late. Thankfully, due to the fact that the establishment also doubles as a bar, it is open until 2 a.m. This makes Via Tribunali the perfect place for a late night feast after a show at one of the neighboring Capitol Hill clubs or the end to a romantic night on the town.