The Daily of the University of Washington

Coming clean about "Chinese restaurant syndrome's" dirty ingredient


Eating healthy is becoming increasingly complicated these days. It's no longer the difference between choosing whole wheat bread over white — now there are many pervasive and sinister things that can sneak into your food, and some of them are causing a great deal of controversy.

Trans fats, which are found in things like shortening and margarine, have been linked to copious health problems, and were recently banned from New York City restaurants. Genetically modified fruits and vegetables have also recently gone under similar scrutiny for their possible health risks.

One of the oldest controversial ingredients is monosodium glutamate, or MSG. It has been blamed for a myriad of health problems — from numbness to headaches to chest pain. These symptoms have been collectively referred to as "Chinese restaurant syndrome," due to the fact that many Chinese restaurants use MSG in their food. But how much of this is myth, and how much is based in reality?

The truth is that MSG is found in many more things than Chinese food. It's found in many snack foods, instant noodles and canned soups. In addition to that, it occurs naturally in some commonly used foods, such as soy sauce, aged cheeses, tomatoes and peas.

It was from one of these natural sources– — konbu, a type of Japanese seaweed — that MSG was first synthesized. Japanese scientist Kikunae Ikeda noticed that brown crystals formed after konbu-based broth had evaporated, and from that discovery created a pure version of these crystals, MSG.

The flavor of MSG was originally described by the Japanese as "umami," which means "savory," and is used to categorize flavors along with sweet, sour, spicy and bitter. MSG has no real taste on its own, but when added to foods it gives them a more savory flavor, as well as a fuller and richer feel. It was originally marketed in Japan as "ajinomoto," which means "instant flavor."

Although very popular in Asia, MSG didn't become as popular in the United States — at least not as a knowingly added product. While many started complaining of "Chinese restaurant syndrome" after eating Asian food, almost no one has complained of "parmesan cheese syndrome."

So how did this naturally — occurring substance become one of the most controversial and feared foods out there? Anecdotal evidence and hearsay led to the spreading of the idea that MSG was bad for you, and that stereotype continues today.

MSG use may actually be on the rise in the United States now. As more studies come out showing that it is not harmful, chefs who have always known about MSG's flavor — enhancing properties are less afraid to use it.

MSG has caused some controversy in the food community though, but not for health reasons. Many professional cooks see it as a "cheat," a way to make dishes that otherwise lacked in flavor rich and better tasting than they actually are. Many argue that MSG isn't needed if you cook things right.

Despite studies proving otherwise, MSG continues to be a controversial ingredient. Although there may be some truth to a small number of people's complaints, MSG is like any other seasoning; when eaten in small amounts, it's ok, but just like salt or sugar, you don't want to overdo it.

— Jeremy Konick


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