Blink and you might miss this lauded International District restaurant. Hidden at the back corner of a Vietnamese strip small, all that is visible of the Tamarind Tree from the road is a small white sign — those with myopia might want to use a GPS or specially trained hound with a knack for the subtleties of Vietnamese cuisines.

Upon approach, however, the patron realizes that this is no ordinary pho shop or bodega, but an attractive yet cozy establishment boasting a heated patio with a waterfall. Most nights, hoards of urbanites young and old crowd into the small waiting area for a chance to dine at stone tables surrounded by vibrant orange walls and a central fireplace.

The Tamarind Tree's menu is extensive — with dish names listed in several dialects — and to the individual unfamiliar with the variations of the cuisine a little overwhelming. Fortunately, the establishment's band of overzealous waiters are willing to expound — at length — regarding the ingredients in each dish. A tip — save yourself the monologue, which becomes laughable after several minutes, and go with what sounds good.

Food arrives, albeit with a bit of a wait due to the volume of customers, prepared as crisp and attractive as the restaurant itself. The Tamarind Tree rolls proved to be a wonderful appetizer, prepared as salad rolls with jicama, fried tofu and coconut for crunch. The green beans and garlic sauce arrived delicate and fresh, without the normal overpowering of sauce typical to many Asian establishments.

Due to the influence of French culture on the region, Vietnamese food is traditionally blander than many of other cuisines associated with the Golden Triangle. Unfortunately, this bland influence was overrepresented at the Tamarind Tree. Several dishes, including a recommended and much-anticipated mushroom pot (five varieties of mushrooms steamed with herbs, spices and carrots in special sauce on a bed of sticky rice), arrived fresh, but rather tasteless.

Nothing drowned out the blandness better, however, than Tamarind Tree's coconut ice cream. Made on site, this cold, rich confection is absolutely divine.

Prices are wonderfully reasonable with most appetizers at $5 and most entrees from $7-10.

The Tamarind Tree accepts reservations until 6 p.m. Make one, and eat early or risk a long wait, even on weeknights. Parking, which contends with about 10 other Vietnamese restaurants in the immediate vicinity, is a shady, logistical nightmare or perhaps a true effort to replicate the transportation state of Asia.

— Maureen Trantham

arts@thedaily.washington.edu