By
Maureen Trantham
January 4, 2007
Despite the fact this writer once came in third in a state geography bee, I still had to look up Trinidad on a world map.
For those in a similar boat, the small island resides just north of Venezuela at the edge of the Caribbean.
Luckily, adventuresome eaters won't have to travel that far to savor a taste of Trinidad.
Pam's Kitchen, at the corner of Northeast 50th Street and University Way Northeast, offers patrons a lively new addition to the U-District's ubiquitous array of ethnic eateries.
Say "Trinidadian" three times, fast and you'll probably already be standing inside Pam Jacob's establishment, lured in by brightly colored walls, clean and tasteful lighting, and a tempting smell that may be difficult to place.
It isn't facny, but Pam's still manages to seem like a welcome escape from the Ave. The menu is blessedly simple and revolves around the Trinidadian tradition of roti. Hailing from India, the pillowy flatbread's presence in Trinidadian food speaks to the cuisine's myriad of influences, which also include African, Asian and European flavors.
Available in two varieties — Parantha and Dahlpurie — with a choice of meat filling, both of Pam's roti inspire a vast collection of memorable associations.
The soft and doughy Parantha roti, known to Trinidads as "buss-up-shut" for its crumpled resemblance to a "busted-up shirt," is served separate from the filling of meat, curry potatoes and chickpeas and is meant to be dipped and used as a scoop. This makes for the height of delightful finger food.
Don't worry, your mother isn't watching.
Dahlpurie roti is served as a kind of Trinidadian burrito with a shell composed of buttery ground split peas and dough. Perhaps the furthest thing from Chipotle, the Dahlpurie roti's subtle flavors and creamy hints of cumin and ginger commingle to create your new favorite comfort food.
My companion's allusion to a "wrapped-up Indian Thanksgiving" somehow hit right on the mark.
Pam's offers vegetarian versions to the traditional meat roti, but the gently cooked and well-spiced lamb proved particularly outstanding and, from the looks, smells and sounds issued by a neighboring table, the goat is next on my list.
Service is brisk and congenial and Pam's staff — aware of the fact they may be the first Trinidadian restaurant ever in Seattle — is diligent in providing the novice patron with ordering advice. But from the looks of a weeknight, when the small dining room is filled by 7 p.m., Pam's Kitchen and Trinidadian cuisine may not remain a secret much longer.
— Maureen Trantham
maureentrantham@thedaily.washington.edu
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