There's good Mexican and then there's Taco Bell.

And then there's Gran Sabor.

I'm not saying it necessarily proceeds in that order, but nearly.

Located at 42nd and the Ave. in a space that used to belong to the now-classy Indian food restaurant Shalimar, I had high hopes for Gran Sabor.

I love Mexican food. I love being able to walk less than three blocks to Mexican food. I love paying decent prices for Mexican food. And I absolutely love Corona.

Based on these fundamentals, the restaurant was earning a perfect 4.0 — that is, until I stepped inside.

While questionable, Aztec-inspired masks had replaced Indian wall-hangings, an off funk of old Indian food still hung in the air. As we sat down to eat, my companion found his booth to have a mysterious stickiness. Perhaps it had just been wiped down, but no one likes the feeling of a moist towelette before they eat — especially as a seat.

As the prerequisite chips and salsa arrived, I wondered what exactly Seattle's problem with the Mexican cuisine was. As a metropolitan area, we seemed to have the ability to whip up the gastronomical delights of nearly every other region of the world with relative ease — so why not our good neighbors to the south?

I nearly cried when the manager of the wonderfully authentic Pepe's informed me of its closing, and since that day I have observed a parade of mediocre to poor replacements set up shop (and quickly close) on the Ave.

Which is why, when I took a thick, tepid and greasy bite of chip topped with near-flavorless salsa, I almost broke into tears again.

With 20-odd Thai restaurants in near as many meters, is it too much to ask for just one great, well-stuffed chile relleno?

Apparently. My relleno arrived oddly stuffed with beef (I was informed there was no cheese, although the rest of my meal was coated with it) in a rather tough chile and reeking of the sour taste of vinegar. Despite my ardent love of Mexican, it was unfinishable.

My partner's chicken enchilada was slightly better, although his tortilla was a little undercooked and his chicken was on the dry side. On both dishes, the side of rice and beans hovered right above Taco Bell quality.

To be fair, Seattle does host several good, authentic Mexican restaurants. They are, however, nowhere near the Ave. I recommend the always-packed La Carta Oaxaca in Ballard for upscale yet delicious Oaxacan fare and Gorditos in Greenwood for out-of-this world burritos that are the size of small children.

I cannot, however, recommend Gran Sabor on the Ave.

— Maureen Trantham

arts@thedaily.washington.edu